There and back again…

Got to get out of Xpu-Ha. Xpu-Ha is one of those places that if you don’t move on you’d probably end up staying here for the rest of your life.

Went for breakfast with Mike, Juan Carlos and Nils. We took the van down the road to a small place just under the fly-over. Very Mexican – looks run down at a first glance, but the food was excellent. A smoothy from cantaloupe melon and 3 tacos – one with eggs, the other with liver and onions and the final with the equivalent of black pudding. Very nice. After chilling on the beach and one final swim in the ocean Juan Carlos dropped my off at the top of the road to get the bus back to Playa. It was sad to say goodbye to Juan Carlos. I really hope that we meet again.

Interesting but straightforward journey back to Cancun. This was the first time I’d been on the local buses with my big pack and it was no problem just a bit short on space. Got the bus to Playa and then straight on another one to Cancun. I had decided to get a local bus to Cancun instead of the ADO (similar to National Express). I knew that the Hotel Margaritas in Cancun was close to the ADO station so when I got off the small bus I asked a few people where the ADO station was. I got a few bemused looks until someone pointed out that it was straight across the street from me. D’oh! So from there it was a short walk to the hotel.

I had a few hours to kill before I’d planned to meet up with Jonas and Tobias. I tried to find somewhere that I could get my laundry done but because it was Saturday they would only do it for the Monday, which was no use I was flying to Cuba on the Sunday. Also the post office was closed which was a shame as I wanted to get the PADI forms and also mail a letter home. I’ll try to mail this from Cuba instead. Hope that mail gets through to USA.

Met up with Tobias and Jonas in the sports bar opposite from the hotel as planned. Had a few beers and a steak in the bar and then made our way to the stadium. We watched the replay of the Utd v Totthenham game. We started the game as Tottenham were 2:0 and I thought that Susan must be loving this, but then as Utd pulled clear and then demolished them I realised she probably hates them even more now…

The stadium was close to Walmart in a small sports complex so it was rude not to get some more beers at Walmart. The stadium itself was basic, but the cheerleaders more than made up for it.

The stadium has no roof – but then it hardly ever rains here and the games tend to be played in the evenings so there is no real need. The main problem with the stadium was that it was a fairly small crowd (< 5000) and the stands were behind an athletic track (always a bad idea!). Atlante (the team from Cancun) were playing Manta Ray from Veracruz (I think!). Atlante had reached the semis of the North American equivalent of the Champions League, but were struggling in this seasons domestic league. Unfortunately they appeared to be resting a lot of players for the big game ahead so Manta Ray dominated. That said it was a bit of a boring game. The only time it came alive was when Manta scored. The crowd just throw anything they have in their hands into the air so people get drenched in beer, coke etc…

The scoreline finised 1:0 to Manta Ray and the crowd dispersed. I was hoping for a better game but then again I hope that I can see something in Brazil hen I get there.
Said goodbye to Jonas and Tobias and then back to the hotel, So this was it, the final parting of the Fellowship. I was on my own now, or at least until I get to Cuba.

Last dive today of the open water certificate. The first place we dived at was Tortugas. The boat ride was a bit choppy out and we were all drenched before we even got to the dive site. Then it was down into the water.

This dive is a drift dive, which means that you free descend (to 18m) and then literally float with the current and then the boat picks us up at another spot 40mins later. This was my favourite so far as we got to see turtles again.

Seeing how easy these creatures swim against the current gives an idea of just how strong they are. Apart from the turtles we saw Barracuda and Moray Eels and hundreds of different fish.

Getting back onto the boat was a bit more tricky due to the swell and then it was off to the final dive site of Barracuda. This is a five fingered reef and we spent 40mins exploring around the edges of the reef. We saw a few more Morays (both spotted and green), lobster, scorpion fish and king crab. This was a really nice place but there were too many dive groups down here, almost felt like we were in a shopping mall. One of the divers from another group was poking the lobster trying to get a “better picture”. What a nob! Considering most animals only attack when they are provoked as a defensive reaction it would have been justice if the lobster had fought back.

Passed all the practical tests including taking my mask off and floating like a Buddha (for buoyancy control). Then it was back to the dive shop to do the theory test. Passed this test (96%) and then that was it – I was certified PADI open water diver.

Got a haircut in town which was actually straightforward and then grabbed a bite to eat. The place where I ate was a Mexican grilled chicken place just down the road from the hotel we stayed in at Playa. ¼ grilled chicken, plus sauce, rice and tortillas together with a soft drink for 45 peso (~£2.25) – Great food and a bargin!

Headed back to Xpu-Ha to celebrate with Juan Carlos and Mike. Then we tried to swap the roof racks on the van. At the moment the van we used only had a small rack. Mike had brought two racks down on his van so we took of the small rack and moved the big one from Mikes van to Juan Carlos’. In the states this would be done in a garage with a hydraulic hoist. Here at Xpu-Ha we only had man power, the 3 of us and 3 of the Kite Surfers – Pat, Dave and Dillan. Managed it without incident but some of the legs had gone missing so we had to improvise a bit.

One of Mikes passengers from a few years ago showed up (Nils from Dusseldorf, Germany). I think it was a trek in Mexico that he had done.

Also decided at last to try and get facebook sorted out. So I’m now registered and hopefully looking for “friends”….

In the evening we had a game of Trivial Pursuit. Gabby, Pat and Me on one team and Mike, Nils and Sandra on the other. We won but it was a close thing.

I was really exciting getting up this morning as today was my first proper dive in the ocean. Again caught the local bus into town and made my way to the dive shop. From here we got kitted up and took the gear down to the boat. It was a short ride out on the boat to the first site at Chun-Zumbul. We dived to 10m for 45mins.

Time went past so quickly as it always does under the water and in no time we had to surface and get back into the boat. From here it was a short ride to the next site at Jardines. Again a relatively shallow dive to 10m for 41min.

It’s the first time I’ve ever dived abroad and it would be really difficult to go back to cold water diving in the UK again. I was comfortable in only a 3mm shorty wetsuit and the amount of fish and other animals you can see is amazing. There’s so much life here.

After the course I made my way back to Xpu-Ha again. The wind has really got up today. It also looked like it may rain so I put the fly sheet on. Had my worst meal in Mexico… Because Xpu-Ha is out of the way and the only think resembling a food shop is the petrol station at the end of the road we decided to head up to get some food. None descript sandwich and snacks! Much worse than UK service station food which is bad! In hindsight should have just walked up the beach to one of the resorts and ate at their restaurants.

Around 10pm Mike suggested we go and fetch the tent as it had blown away. Luckily there was a tree at the end of the alley between the beach houses and the tent was stuck to this, otherwise some of my stuff may have ended up in Belize much sooner than me. Staked it down good and proper this time and put my big rucsac in just to add some weight. Apart from the battering from the wind had a fairly good night.

Got up early and caught the local bus into Playa del Carman. Its so cheap the public transport. Had to walk to the road which was about 15mins and then wave down a bus. The journey was around half and hour and cost 20 peso (~£1.00). Then had to walk across town to the dive shop.

Met Natalie who co-owns the shop (Dive Mexico) and would be my instructor. We went through the theory and then spent the morning to practical skills in the small pool in the back garden. All the skills came flooding back and it wasn’t long before I was back at home under the water.

The course finished around lunch time and then I was free for the afternoon. Went for a walk along the beach at Playa del Carmen. Considering the beach I’d just come from at Xpu-Ha I honestly don’t know why people spend there days on beaches like Playa del Carmen. Yes you can have a sun lounger and have someone bring you beers but its so crowded. Having said that the less people who know about Xpu-Ha, the better.

Found my way back to the bus stop and then caught the local bus back to Xpu-Ha. In the evening a few of us played poker at Pats apartment and ordered in Pizza. Pat was the kite surfing beach dude we’d met last time we were at Xpu-Ha. Also met Gabby from Germany, who’s been living in Mexico for 16 years. Was a good night even though I lost, but with a 20 peso buy in it will hardly break the bank.

Pitch one of the trek tents to sleep in next to the apartment. Was great to be sleeping under canvas, however the wind got up during the night but it was still better than sleeping inside as the mosquitos had made a return.

Originally I had planned to spend tonight in Cancun also, but I didn’t think I would accomplish anything with another day in Cancun. So I’ve moved my reservation back to 25th April which gives me a base to get back to before I fly to Cuba.

One of my original ideas was to head up to Holbox to swim with Whale Sharks. However with a bit more research I found that the Whale Sharks only really start towards end of May. So instead I went back to Playa del Carmen to do a PADI Open Water Course. I’ve gone back to the shop where Riccardo works (the guide who took us to the Cave Cenote). Juan Carlos was making his way back to the Xpu-Ha and so I got a lift in the van back to Playa del Carman.

Tobias, Jonas, Juan Carlos and I had breakfast in the 100% Natural restaurant across the street from the hotel. Then we swapped a few photos and music before Tobias and Jonas headed off for Isla Mujeres and Juan Carlos and I headed for Xpu-Ha.

It was such a strange feeling being back on the road again in the van. Kept expecting to turn round and see everyone still there. Got to Playa Del Carmen and Juan Carlos and I went to a tiny restaurant to eat Carnetas. Absolutely fantastic Pork ribs and BBQ Chicken. 3 weeks ago I would have walked past a place like this, but now it just seems natural to be eating in tiny out of the way places were just the Mexicans eat.

Met up with Riccardo and signed up for the PADI open water and then we went back to Riccardos place to get some beers and met up with other divers. Then it was back to Xpu-Ha.

Can’t believe I’ve now got homework to do for the theory tests for the diving course. It’s pretty straight forward though but its around 15 years since I last did any diving. Anyway had to read chapters 1 to 3 of the open water book for the test tomorrow. So I’ve now got another book to lug around. I’ll probably mail this back with any Spanish books I get from the language course in Cuba.

Mike, Juan Carlos and I are sharing a small apartment on the beach at Xpu-Ha. Its only a stone throw from the huts we stayed in with the trek group. I hardly recognised the place though as almost all the tents have now gone and the place is so quiet.

Today was a very subdued day. A few of us had breakfast together and then Lindi, Nicki and Siobhan left for the airport, shortly followed by Helen and Cat. Sarah and Susan left early in the morning so I didn’t get chance to say goodbye.

So this just left Juan Carlos, Jonas, Tobias and me. The day was largely uneventful. Posted some stuff back to England to make my pack more manageable and then sat by the pool and got the blog up to date. Managed to get skype calls into my parents and my sister, it was really nice to talk to them and see them. Everyones doing well back in England which is great.

Walked over down to Walmart and spent a bit of time looking for a guide book for the rest of my trip through central America but without success. There are a few mistakes I’ve made on the trip but not bringing a guide book for Central America was not a good idea. But having said that most of the info is on the internet anyway and I’m starting to get a better idea of where I want to go and what I want to see and do. Talking to Juan Carlos and Mike has been good for this.

Gave my Tolkien book to Susan (Children of Hurin) and got one from Mike – Shantaram. Looks like a great read but it weighs about the same as everything I’ve sent back to the UK. I’ll try to read it whilst in Cuba, and then I can swap if for a lighter one.

In the evening the four of us went for a meal just down the road from the hotel. Ironically this was the very restaurant that Nicki, Siobhan, Lindi, Issabelle and I went to on the first day. The main difference is that we ate Mexican – Taccos. I didn’t realise that there is both an English and a Mexican menu that the locals get (with Mexican prices).

After this had a few beers at the Sports Bar across the street and then I called it a night.

This is the last day of the trek and I’ll be very sorry to say goodbye to everyone later today. We had a bit of late start today (thankfully) because we picked up the snorkelling equipment last night.

We spend the day snorkelling. Our Guide, Riccardo was one of Juan Carlos old friends who he’s known since he was around 13. The first stop was a Cave Cenote called Dos Ojos (Two Eyes). Its actually a huge linked cave system, the second most extensive linked system in the world. Snorkelling in this system was an amazing experience. The water is so clear and there are interesting rock formations both under and above the water. It was great fun to be in the water and this is completely different to anything I’ve tried before. It was completely safe though as we were only just snorkelling. There were two cave systems, the first we just had a bit of a swim and took some group photos.

The second was a bit more serious and involved some more snorkelling. We could dive down to the rock formations and see the fish in the first cave. In the second cave (the Bat Cave - without Christian Bale but with plenty of winged rodants) we swam around for a bit and then it was time to head back to the first cave.

After a quick sandwich it we drove to the turtle sanctuary at Akmula. This was a really great place to snorkelling we saw a lots of fishes, a moray eel, some baby squids and a small stringray, but by far and away the highlight was the number of turtles we saw. There must have been at least ten! Everytime I see animals like this in the wild it makes me so angry that people actively want to hurt these creatures.

After the turtles we popped back to the hotel to pick up our bags and load up the van for last time. Then it was a short drive back to Cancun. On the way back we went through the trek anthems; Por Favour, Bohemian Rhapsody and Naked. Must get these tunes from Huan Carlos! After dropping Isabelle of at her hotel (the Westin). Her boyfriend, Garry, had flown out to spend some time and it was quite humerous when the group mobbed him after the group photo. Even so it was sad to see the first of the group leave. We’ve all been pretty close for 3 weeks and this is the begining of the end.

Eventually we passed though the hotel complexes that scare Cancun and made our way downtown to where itall started - Hotel Margartis. After we checked in the remainder of the group headed of for one last meal together and then a few drinks in a sports bar across the street from the hotel. Even though this was the last night people were in high spirits. Some glad to be going home, some relieved to be going home, some sad to be going home and others looking forward to the next chapter.

Has this been the best trek ever. Difficult to say really. I’ve never had anything but positive experiences from Trek and this is different from the two previous treks in America. Would I recomend it - Yes I would highly recomend it! But like everything its the people that you travel with that make it what it is. So here’s a big thanks to Juan Carlos (our tour guide), Lindi (from Perth, Aus), Nicki and Siobhan (from Milton Keynes, UK), Cat (from Bristol, UK), Susan (from Kent, UK), Sarah (from UK), Helen (from tother side of Pennines, UK), Tobias and Jonas (from Copenhagen, Denmark) and Issabelle (from London). Safe travels and see you all soon.

Woke up pretty early with sleeping on the beach, but though I was still tired it was great to be up for another sunrise. If anything this was better than the sunrise at Bacalar. Went for a run down the beach to the headland and then back to the other headland, about 30mins in total but its much harder running in the soft sand. Saw the kite flying instructor (Dave) out on the waves first thing which was impressive considering he was fairly cooked last night. Don’t think his wife was too impressed that he stayed at the beach last night.

We had a lazy morning as the Danes stayed in Playa del Carman last night so Carlos went into town to pick them up. Spent most of the morning sleeping in a Hammock and catching up with this journal.

From Xpu-Ha we visited the Mayan ruins at Tulu’um. Originally this was called Zama (meaning Dawn). This was an important trading city for the Mayans as it was on the coast. At its zenith it was around 6km long, but now most of the ruins have been destroyed or reclaimed by the jungle. From all the Mayan ruins I have seen on this trip this is perhaps the least interesting. The site itself is very picturesque due to its proximity to the ocean.

However it doesn’t have the splendour or the history of the other sites. In addition with being so close to Playa del Carmen and Cancun the place is full with hoards of tourists. Give me Palenque or Yaxchilan any day.

A quick snack at the van and we left to go to X’cacel. This is a turtle sanctuary when it’s the turtle season, but that’s later in the year. The beach is postcard perfect, as its completely undeveloped due to the turtles. We had a quick swim in the sea but there was a bit of a swell so we didn’t stay in too long.

Even though the beach was beautiful the highlight was the small Cenote a short walk from the beach. This was the smallest Cenote we had visited but this added to its charm. Juan Carlos had said that he’s been there in the low season where he is the only person at the Cenote. It was really pleasant to just relax and swim around in the Cenote. The water was so clear you could clearly see the bottom at 3m.

We left around 4pm to go back to Playa Del Carman for the last meal. The restaurant that Juan Carlos had chosen was absolutely amazing. The El Alux restaurant set inside a natural Cenote. The natural limestone chambers have been modified into a series of dining rooms and bars. The food was a significant step up from what we had been eating for the rest of the trek. I had Mayan Desire which was chicken stuffed with cheese in a mango and ginger sauce together with a Maya Absolut, a vodka based cocktail with watermelon. The cocktail was the same as the Maya Bell at Palenque. The meal was great but there was also some entertainment. First a traditional Mayan style dance by two “warriors”.

And then Tobias shuck his thing with the girl of Eastern Promise.

After the restaurant we dropped the van of at the hotel and headed back to the Blue Parrot nightclub till 3am.

We returned to Xpu-Ha this morning. After a quick trip to Walmart to get supplies for the BBQ and stock up on beer. Arrived early afternoon and the day was spend swimming, playing rounders and volleyball. I put up some hammocks in the hut whilst others pitched their tents. I’ve managed to start my next book “Reminance of the Cuban Revolution” by Che Guevara. Hoping to get some insite into Cuba before heading there in a week.

There is a Kite Surfing school on the beach and it looks really good fun. Problem is that its so expensive. The guy wanted 225 USD for 3 hour lesson. I’m definitely tempted to try it but I think I will wait till I get to Honduras. I’ll start planning the next trip around Belize, Guatamala and Honduras soon, but by speaking to Mike and Juan Carlos I now have some good ideas.

The beach at Xpu-Ha is suppose to be one of the top 10 most beautiful beaches in the world. You won’t get many arguments from me and I would love to return some day.

In the evening we had a BBQ on the beach. Kebabs with beef and vegetables, some steak and some hot dogs. Was pretty good, but then I would say that as I was cooking!

Two of the kite flying instructors (David from Mexico and Patrick from Vancouver) joined us for the BBQ and stayed for the drinking games. Ye-Ha. Its amazing to see the effect that two adonis like beach dudes have on the women! I guess its only natural to be slightly jealous of this but then maybe I should just stay at Xpu-Ha and get toned! Or maybe I should have spent more time in the gym and less time design stadia - yeah! Dream on Martin and keep moving!

Unfortunately there wasn’t enough hammocks to go round and I wasn’t going to pitch another tent just for me so I just took a camping mat and my sleeping bag and slept on the beach. Took a while to get of to sleep but had pretty good night. I was plenty warm enough with the one season bag, just the noise of the ocean and a sky full of stars to drop of to.

Woke up to see the sunrise. Sunrise is one of my favourite times of the day, just a shame its so early! After a few pictures of the sunrise I went for a short run up to the fort and back. It was great to be running in the cool of the morning, so peaceful and a good time to try and get thinking time done.

After breakfast we took a boat trip across the lagoon to where the water flows in from the sea. Unlike the Cenote, the lagoon receives its water from the Caribbean but it is not salty. It was only when we took the boat trip we saw the white mangroves which we had seen on the lagoon at Zipolite. We followed the current upstream for a while and then everyone who wanted to could jump into the water and float back down stream. It was really relaxing to be sat down in a buoyancy aid just floating along on the current. Eventually we caught up with the boat which had moored at the entrance to the lagoon. Playing around here for a while and then it was time to get back into the boat and head back.

Unfortunately a few people seem to have stomach problems including Juan Carlos. Its really tough to drive when your not feeling well so instead of heading to the ruins at Tulum we went straight to Playa del Carmen. On the way we stopped of at Xpu-Ha Beach. Even though the hotels at Playa del Carmen at paid for there is an option to stay here by the sea. Most people are up for it which should be good.

Out of all the placed we’ve visited Playa del Carmen is the least favourite. Its very touristy and geared for the American holiday market. I’m probably doing it a great disservice but its not the real mexico we’ve been enjoying on this trip.

One of the songs that’s been playing a lot in the van is a Mexican song “por favour”. After the evening meal at a Bagel restaurant we had a drink in the bar owned by the guy who sang this song – Kitxen. After this the girls went to do some shopping whilst the two Danes and I went onto a nightclub called the Blue Parrot. I didn’t stay long and left around 1am. Before I left though I managed to make a complete tit of myself by falling of one of the bar swings! Luckily it was only my ego that was bruised!