There and back again…

Got to get out of Xpu-Ha. Xpu-Ha is one of those places that if you don’t move on you’d probably end up staying here for the rest of your life.

Went for breakfast with Mike, Juan Carlos and Nils. We took the van down the road to a small place just under the fly-over. Very Mexican – looks run down at a first glance, but the food was excellent. A smoothy from cantaloupe melon and 3 tacos – one with eggs, the other with liver and onions and the final with the equivalent of black pudding. Very nice. After chilling on the beach and one final swim in the ocean Juan Carlos dropped my off at the top of the road to get the bus back to Playa. It was sad to say goodbye to Juan Carlos. I really hope that we meet again.

Interesting but straightforward journey back to Cancun. This was the first time I’d been on the local buses with my big pack and it was no problem just a bit short on space. Got the bus to Playa and then straight on another one to Cancun. I had decided to get a local bus to Cancun instead of the ADO (similar to National Express). I knew that the Hotel Margaritas in Cancun was close to the ADO station so when I got off the small bus I asked a few people where the ADO station was. I got a few bemused looks until someone pointed out that it was straight across the street from me. D’oh! So from there it was a short walk to the hotel.

I had a few hours to kill before I’d planned to meet up with Jonas and Tobias. I tried to find somewhere that I could get my laundry done but because it was Saturday they would only do it for the Monday, which was no use I was flying to Cuba on the Sunday. Also the post office was closed which was a shame as I wanted to get the PADI forms and also mail a letter home. I’ll try to mail this from Cuba instead. Hope that mail gets through to USA.

Met up with Tobias and Jonas in the sports bar opposite from the hotel as planned. Had a few beers and a steak in the bar and then made our way to the stadium. We watched the replay of the Utd v Totthenham game. We started the game as Tottenham were 2:0 and I thought that Susan must be loving this, but then as Utd pulled clear and then demolished them I realised she probably hates them even more now…

The stadium was close to Walmart in a small sports complex so it was rude not to get some more beers at Walmart. The stadium itself was basic, but the cheerleaders more than made up for it.

The stadium has no roof – but then it hardly ever rains here and the games tend to be played in the evenings so there is no real need. The main problem with the stadium was that it was a fairly small crowd (< 5000) and the stands were behind an athletic track (always a bad idea!). Atlante (the team from Cancun) were playing Manta Ray from Veracruz (I think!). Atlante had reached the semis of the North American equivalent of the Champions League, but were struggling in this seasons domestic league. Unfortunately they appeared to be resting a lot of players for the big game ahead so Manta Ray dominated. That said it was a bit of a boring game. The only time it came alive was when Manta scored. The crowd just throw anything they have in their hands into the air so people get drenched in beer, coke etc…

The scoreline finised 1:0 to Manta Ray and the crowd dispersed. I was hoping for a better game but then again I hope that I can see something in Brazil hen I get there.
Said goodbye to Jonas and Tobias and then back to the hotel, So this was it, the final parting of the Fellowship. I was on my own now, or at least until I get to Cuba.

Last dive today of the open water certificate. The first place we dived at was Tortugas. The boat ride was a bit choppy out and we were all drenched before we even got to the dive site. Then it was down into the water.

This dive is a drift dive, which means that you free descend (to 18m) and then literally float with the current and then the boat picks us up at another spot 40mins later. This was my favourite so far as we got to see turtles again.

Seeing how easy these creatures swim against the current gives an idea of just how strong they are. Apart from the turtles we saw Barracuda and Moray Eels and hundreds of different fish.

Getting back onto the boat was a bit more tricky due to the swell and then it was off to the final dive site of Barracuda. This is a five fingered reef and we spent 40mins exploring around the edges of the reef. We saw a few more Morays (both spotted and green), lobster, scorpion fish and king crab. This was a really nice place but there were too many dive groups down here, almost felt like we were in a shopping mall. One of the divers from another group was poking the lobster trying to get a “better picture”. What a nob! Considering most animals only attack when they are provoked as a defensive reaction it would have been justice if the lobster had fought back.

Passed all the practical tests including taking my mask off and floating like a Buddha (for buoyancy control). Then it was back to the dive shop to do the theory test. Passed this test (96%) and then that was it – I was certified PADI open water diver.

Got a haircut in town which was actually straightforward and then grabbed a bite to eat. The place where I ate was a Mexican grilled chicken place just down the road from the hotel we stayed in at Playa. ¼ grilled chicken, plus sauce, rice and tortillas together with a soft drink for 45 peso (~£2.25) – Great food and a bargin!

Headed back to Xpu-Ha to celebrate with Juan Carlos and Mike. Then we tried to swap the roof racks on the van. At the moment the van we used only had a small rack. Mike had brought two racks down on his van so we took of the small rack and moved the big one from Mikes van to Juan Carlos’. In the states this would be done in a garage with a hydraulic hoist. Here at Xpu-Ha we only had man power, the 3 of us and 3 of the Kite Surfers – Pat, Dave and Dillan. Managed it without incident but some of the legs had gone missing so we had to improvise a bit.

One of Mikes passengers from a few years ago showed up (Nils from Dusseldorf, Germany). I think it was a trek in Mexico that he had done.

Also decided at last to try and get facebook sorted out. So I’m now registered and hopefully looking for “friends”….

In the evening we had a game of Trivial Pursuit. Gabby, Pat and Me on one team and Mike, Nils and Sandra on the other. We won but it was a close thing.

I was really exciting getting up this morning as today was my first proper dive in the ocean. Again caught the local bus into town and made my way to the dive shop. From here we got kitted up and took the gear down to the boat. It was a short ride out on the boat to the first site at Chun-Zumbul. We dived to 10m for 45mins.

Time went past so quickly as it always does under the water and in no time we had to surface and get back into the boat. From here it was a short ride to the next site at Jardines. Again a relatively shallow dive to 10m for 41min.

It’s the first time I’ve ever dived abroad and it would be really difficult to go back to cold water diving in the UK again. I was comfortable in only a 3mm shorty wetsuit and the amount of fish and other animals you can see is amazing. There’s so much life here.

After the course I made my way back to Xpu-Ha again. The wind has really got up today. It also looked like it may rain so I put the fly sheet on. Had my worst meal in Mexico… Because Xpu-Ha is out of the way and the only think resembling a food shop is the petrol station at the end of the road we decided to head up to get some food. None descript sandwich and snacks! Much worse than UK service station food which is bad! In hindsight should have just walked up the beach to one of the resorts and ate at their restaurants.

Around 10pm Mike suggested we go and fetch the tent as it had blown away. Luckily there was a tree at the end of the alley between the beach houses and the tent was stuck to this, otherwise some of my stuff may have ended up in Belize much sooner than me. Staked it down good and proper this time and put my big rucsac in just to add some weight. Apart from the battering from the wind had a fairly good night.

Got up early and caught the local bus into Playa del Carman. Its so cheap the public transport. Had to walk to the road which was about 15mins and then wave down a bus. The journey was around half and hour and cost 20 peso (~£1.00). Then had to walk across town to the dive shop.

Met Natalie who co-owns the shop (Dive Mexico) and would be my instructor. We went through the theory and then spent the morning to practical skills in the small pool in the back garden. All the skills came flooding back and it wasn’t long before I was back at home under the water.

The course finished around lunch time and then I was free for the afternoon. Went for a walk along the beach at Playa del Carmen. Considering the beach I’d just come from at Xpu-Ha I honestly don’t know why people spend there days on beaches like Playa del Carmen. Yes you can have a sun lounger and have someone bring you beers but its so crowded. Having said that the less people who know about Xpu-Ha, the better.

Found my way back to the bus stop and then caught the local bus back to Xpu-Ha. In the evening a few of us played poker at Pats apartment and ordered in Pizza. Pat was the kite surfing beach dude we’d met last time we were at Xpu-Ha. Also met Gabby from Germany, who’s been living in Mexico for 16 years. Was a good night even though I lost, but with a 20 peso buy in it will hardly break the bank.

Pitch one of the trek tents to sleep in next to the apartment. Was great to be sleeping under canvas, however the wind got up during the night but it was still better than sleeping inside as the mosquitos had made a return.

Originally I had planned to spend tonight in Cancun also, but I didn’t think I would accomplish anything with another day in Cancun. So I’ve moved my reservation back to 25th April which gives me a base to get back to before I fly to Cuba.

One of my original ideas was to head up to Holbox to swim with Whale Sharks. However with a bit more research I found that the Whale Sharks only really start towards end of May. So instead I went back to Playa del Carmen to do a PADI Open Water Course. I’ve gone back to the shop where Riccardo works (the guide who took us to the Cave Cenote). Juan Carlos was making his way back to the Xpu-Ha and so I got a lift in the van back to Playa del Carman.

Tobias, Jonas, Juan Carlos and I had breakfast in the 100% Natural restaurant across the street from the hotel. Then we swapped a few photos and music before Tobias and Jonas headed off for Isla Mujeres and Juan Carlos and I headed for Xpu-Ha.

It was such a strange feeling being back on the road again in the van. Kept expecting to turn round and see everyone still there. Got to Playa Del Carmen and Juan Carlos and I went to a tiny restaurant to eat Carnetas. Absolutely fantastic Pork ribs and BBQ Chicken. 3 weeks ago I would have walked past a place like this, but now it just seems natural to be eating in tiny out of the way places were just the Mexicans eat.

Met up with Riccardo and signed up for the PADI open water and then we went back to Riccardos place to get some beers and met up with other divers. Then it was back to Xpu-Ha.

Can’t believe I’ve now got homework to do for the theory tests for the diving course. It’s pretty straight forward though but its around 15 years since I last did any diving. Anyway had to read chapters 1 to 3 of the open water book for the test tomorrow. So I’ve now got another book to lug around. I’ll probably mail this back with any Spanish books I get from the language course in Cuba.

Mike, Juan Carlos and I are sharing a small apartment on the beach at Xpu-Ha. Its only a stone throw from the huts we stayed in with the trek group. I hardly recognised the place though as almost all the tents have now gone and the place is so quiet.

Today was a very subdued day. A few of us had breakfast together and then Lindi, Nicki and Siobhan left for the airport, shortly followed by Helen and Cat. Sarah and Susan left early in the morning so I didn’t get chance to say goodbye.

So this just left Juan Carlos, Jonas, Tobias and me. The day was largely uneventful. Posted some stuff back to England to make my pack more manageable and then sat by the pool and got the blog up to date. Managed to get skype calls into my parents and my sister, it was really nice to talk to them and see them. Everyones doing well back in England which is great.

Walked over down to Walmart and spent a bit of time looking for a guide book for the rest of my trip through central America but without success. There are a few mistakes I’ve made on the trip but not bringing a guide book for Central America was not a good idea. But having said that most of the info is on the internet anyway and I’m starting to get a better idea of where I want to go and what I want to see and do. Talking to Juan Carlos and Mike has been good for this.

Gave my Tolkien book to Susan (Children of Hurin) and got one from Mike – Shantaram. Looks like a great read but it weighs about the same as everything I’ve sent back to the UK. I’ll try to read it whilst in Cuba, and then I can swap if for a lighter one.

In the evening the four of us went for a meal just down the road from the hotel. Ironically this was the very restaurant that Nicki, Siobhan, Lindi, Issabelle and I went to on the first day. The main difference is that we ate Mexican – Taccos. I didn’t realise that there is both an English and a Mexican menu that the locals get (with Mexican prices).

After this had a few beers at the Sports Bar across the street and then I called it a night.