Had a good breakfast around 9:00 and then it was my plan to head into town to the tobacco museum first and then onto some other sites. When I eventually got to the museum they were closing in half an hour and I had to buy the tickets to the official havantours agency in town. So I went to the Boxcar museum on the outskirts of town. This museum is on the site of one of the iconic battles of the revolution. A boxcar carrying troops and muntions was derailed and captured by the revolutionary forces, masterminded by Che Guevara. I’m not reached this stage in the dairy but I believe that the victory in Santa Clara was the sign of defeat for the Bastina forces.

After the boxcar museum I went to the casa de la ciduad. This is where the local art is exhibited. It was OK, but nothing special, I guess the best stuff must get exhibited in Habana. I then walked back through the central square and read for a while before walking across the square to the hotel Santa Clara libre where there are still bullet scares across the top of the façade marking one the last battles of the revolution. There is a really nice bar on top of the hotel. Well actually the bar isn’t that special, but the roof terrace has a great view of the city and the surrounding area.
After killing enough time I wandered back to the Havantours and bought a ticket to the tobacco factory. The tobacco factory in Santa Clara is supposed to be one of the best in cuba. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take photographs, presumably because people would then realise that the cigars they are paying a fortune for in the UK and US are being made in a chicken factory style by people who probably earn less than 300 NP per month. It was really interesting and informative tour though. One of the most striking things for me though was that this factory, like the others in cuba, manufacture all the major brands. So someone making montecristo will be working next to someone manufacturing romeo & julliet. It would be like going to a brewery that made Heiniken and Carlsberg. The other thing is that the cigar business is effectively run by Raul Castro who has a monopoly on the production of the goods. If this system of government ever does collapse these so-called heros of the people stand to make a fortune.
The process is fairly straightforward, but it takes months for someone to be sufficiently trained to do the work as the skill and speed at which they work is amazing. The factory produced 30000 cigars per day and have around 150 people working. A Cigar is made from 5 leaves. The first 3 are for taste, aroma and are selected by age, type and drying process. These are wrapped together with a binding leaf and placed in a press for ½ hour. After which the wrapper is applied. This is another leaf that is very soft and supple and has hardly any taste. The wrapper is applied using a natural resin that comes from Canada! After this all cigars are quality tested to ensure porosity. The reading is very strict and if a cigar is too low (below 40) then it is too loosely rolled. To high (above 80) and the cigar will be impossible to draw air through. After this all cigars pass to another area where they are sorted by size, colour (there are over 80 different shades) and shape to ensure that when you open the box they all look the same. The whole process is handmade.
After the cigar factory I walked back to the casa particular to pick up my bags. I caught a horse taxi bag to the Vizul station. I agreed a price of 3CUC which is what Arno said his casa owner had arranged the previous day. It was obvious though that he wasn’t licensed to take tourists as he stuck to all the back street to get to the station without touching any of the main roads. He then dropped me of around the corner from the station. This is a very common practise and all the knock off carriages were lined up in the same place.

I dropped my bag at the station and then walked to the Che memorial. I’m only partially through the diary of Che Guevara, but I can’t help wondering what he would make of what has happened to his adopted country in the last 50 years, or was he so blinded by hatred of the US and what it represented that he had to become so fanatical and go to the opposite extreme. I don’t doubt that either Fidel or Che had their hearts in the right place. But what they have created is a society that still in poverty, oppressed and certainly not free.
The bus back to Habana was straight forward. There are lots of taxi driving offering taxi rides back to Habana for around the same price and quicker. So if there was more that one this may be tempting. However I am not confined of the security of these taxis and I have hear of people being pulled over by armed gangs.
Because this was a longer journey than the others the bus was showing videos. Both sets of videos – Bean and Just for Laughs were interesting because there was no dialogue an therefore no misunderstanding of jokes, but the reaction from every nationality on the bus was the same – laughter. One of the universal human traits you can share no matter of religion, politics or any other division.
The bus arrived back at Habana around 9:30pm and I caught a taxi into town. The first taxi driver wanted to charge me 10CUC but I wasn’t prepared to pay more than 5CUC. He walked away but the next guy agreed to it straight away. Elsbeth had given me the address of the casa she and Margaret had stayed at in the old town. I was taking a risk by just turning up. Unfortunately Emilio didn’t have room but he phoned around and got me sorted with another Casa in the same area, which is what I was hoping for. The Casa was two blocked from Emilios and even closer to the Cathedral. It was fairly basic but with huge rooms, hot water and a comfy bed which is all I needed.
The original plan was to meet up with Kate who was out in town with her boyfriend. Unfortunately by the time I got sorted with the casa and showered etc… she had to leave. I popped into the Hotel Florida in the hope of catching them there and bumped into on the Cuban guys (Damien) who we’d met during my time here. After this I walked down to the front to grab a beer and got chatting to a Cuban salsa singer. Managed to have a broken conversation which was good, but there is a huge need to improve.