There and back again…

So this is the last day before the long weekend. 1st May is a huge public holiday in Cuba and more so as this year is the 50th Anniversary of the revolution. Again I feel as though I’m making some progress in Spanish, but I must know around 1% of what I need and remember far less than this, starting to be able to pick words out of conversations on the radio and TV now as well. Going through some vocab today was nunca (never) which of course I’d picked up a long time ago from the trek song Por Favor…. Maybe one day I’ll understand the whole song.

After class Elsbeth and I went for a walk the vegetable market to do some shopping. Cuba is so expensive. I’m spending a fortune each day which I can’t really afford if I’m going to do this for a year. So I’ll try to cook for myself over the weekend. The fruit and veg at the market is very cheap but the goods in the other supermarket are very expensive. It’s very obvious that Cuba is a country of the have and have nots. “Everyone is equal but some are more equal than others”.

In the evening we went to Casa de la Musica which is another Salsa house. This was next to the Theatre Americano in Habana Central. With the sign outside the building and the cars you think you were in 1950’s America. I was hoping that when we came out that the building would be in lights like Broadway. This wasn’t the case though and as I’m beginning to realise Cuba is a country of contradictions. Habana was the third city in the world to have electric street lighting, but even now most of the streets are in darkness, not that this makes you feel unsafe. So far I’ve never felt uneasy walking around Habana. I didn’t realise when I booked on this excursion to the casa de le Musica that you really need to know how to dance.

Cubans dance all the time, its so natural for them, In England it is rare to go dancing, we have night clubs but no one really dances, not like this. The closest I’ve been to is a barn dance or a Kalie. When we were in San Cristobal we had a bit of a dance in the Revolution Bar but the Casa de la Musica was a whole different level. The other thing I didn’t realise at the time was that those who were having dancing lessons at Sprechcaffe also has another lesson with their dance teacher here. I could say I had a great time but I didn’t enjoy this at all. I hate being crap at something, not that I expect to be able to do something without effort and I’ve always worked hard to be mediocre at everything. So my advice for blokes is that do not go to any of the salsa clubs in Cuba unless you have some dance lessons and preferably take a Cuban dance instructor with you. For girls its different, the Cuban guys are so good they make anyone look good.

After casa de la muscia a few of us went for something to eat. The waiter was offering a special deal for some to have seafood for 10 CUC including a cocktail. When the bill came he charged for the cocktails. At the time I thought this was an innocent mistake, but I’ve come to realise that everyone is trying it on with all the time and you have to be so vigilant. I was feeling pretty tired from the lessons in the week and lack of sleep. So I made my ay back to the hotel after the meal. Anyway it’s a long weekend starting tomorrow so should catch up on some sleep.

Another intensive morning of Spanish. Sometimes I feel as though I’m getting it and other times I feel as though my head will explode. I think with languages you either have a talent or you get there by practise, practise, practise… I know I fall into the second group and I’m hoping that I can get the practise to get it into second nature.

In the afternoon we went to the beach. The beach was nice though when compared to Zipolite or Xpu-Ha its nothing. Had a bit of a swim around and chilled for a bit. Also managed to read quite a bit of Shantaram. This is a really great book and I’m around 1/3 through now so I should be on target to finish before leaving Cuba. There is so much wisdom and great quotes in this book and it’s fast becoming one of my favourites.

Just as we got back on the coach and were about to leave a pimped up lada (yes that’s right a Lada with 10 inch alloys and tinted windows!) came speeding up to road and buried itself into the sand. The sheepish boy racers then spent a good 15 minutes trying to dig and push out the car, much to the hilarity of everyone on our coach and the two chicas they’d driven to the beach!

After the beach a few of us went for a meal at a local restaurant just round the corner from the hotel. Food was very nice and I had Chicken in a fruit sauce. This reminded me very much of the Mayan Desire I had on the last supper of the trek.

After the restaurant we then made our way to a Salsa club (Le Revere). Unfortunately we got there with only around 30 mins left. That said it was good, and rather humbling to see how people dance Salsa for real. I’m going to do the Salsa classes at the school next week so I can at least have a go with embossing myself (too much).

After another full on morning of Spanish lessons we had an excursion planned to the Ernest Hemmingway museum. I made a call home as its my sisters birthday- Happy birthday Helen! It was great to hear everyone again, especially Kiera who seems to sounding much clearer now than even a few weeks ago.

The museum is the house that Hemmingway had on the outskirts of Habana and its where he wrote “The Old Man and the Sea”, “For whom the bell tolls” and countless others. The house was very nice but I would have wanted more from a museum. Having said that I know almost nothing about Hemmingway and I’m sorry to say I’ve never read any of his stuff. All I know so far is he enjoyed shooting animals, he was a womanizer and a heavy drinker – so what’s not to like!

To be honest the thing that spoiled this more than anything else was fact that the museum staff wanted to charge everyone money for taking photographs. 1CUC per photo or you can buy another card that allows you to take as many as you like for 5CUC. It seems so far that everyone wants or thinks they deserve a bung for anything. Someone was telling me that someone working in a tourist place can make more money than a neurosurgeon.

We got back to the hotel and I managed to get another swim in before a few of us met up to go back into the old town. I was with mostly the Swiss and it was really difficult as their preferred language is obviously Swiss German. In the whole night I had perhaps les than 25 minutes of conversation. It did make me realise though just how difficult people must have found it on other trips I’ve been on if English was not their first language. It’s a good learning point, if a little frustrating. But what right do I have to ask anyone to speak another language. I suppose we should be speaking Spanish, but after only 2 days this would have been a stretch. The restaurant was really nice though. It was at the corner of the square that has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site. It also had a microbrewery and you could order a stack of beer with a pump so you could pour it at you table.

A local bus picked up at the hotel around 8:00 to take us to the language school at Sprachcaffe. In some ways it was like starting school again. There are nine of us; Elsbeth (Rotterdam, Holland), Kate (London), Syka & Sofy (Leeds), Ariane (Glasgow), Stephan (Berlin, Germany) and Uli & Ansgar (Frankfurt, Germany). Our teacher Elizabeth speaks Spanish continuously which was a real shock. There is very little English spoken in the class and we have 6 x 45minute lessons from 8:30 till 2:00.

Having said that and despite the fact that I speak no Spanish it is amazing just how much it is possible to understand, but this is largely down to the skill of the teacher.

After the class we headed back to the hotel. The hotel is a series of apartments rather than a traditional hotel though there had been a bit of a mix up as I only had a normal twin room instead of one with a kitchette. Adjacent to our hotel is another one, Hotel Oxidal (part of the same group). We can use the pool here for free which is great. There is a section of the pool which is approx 25m across so for the first time since leaving the UK I could get a proper swim set in. 2000m to get back into it though if I can make this a regular occurrence I could build this up. The internet is extortionate here – 8 CUC for 1 hour. I heard later that even in the smaller internet cafes in town it was 6 CUC for 1 hour. So updating the blog will have to be done in a series of hits.

In the evening there was an excursion to the old town (la Habana Veije). I was really surprised at how far away the hotel is from the old town. Its around 6km which is too far to walk and the taxis want to charge 10CUC though we can usually get them down to 7. I suppose this was one of my real disappointments about being here. The other is that I feel trapped in a tourist bubble, paying tourist prices that wouldn’t be out of place in a US resort.

We walked around the old town and Sergio from the language school gave us a walking tour. I was really impressed with the colonial Spanish architecture. I’ve never seen so much together in one place and the result is amazing. At to this the old cars that drive around the streets and you could easily feel that you’ve been dropped of in the 50’s.

The meal was really nice, grilled pork, and I had my first Moijto in Cuba. After the meal a few of us headed to another bar for some more Moijto then got taxi’s back to the hotel. Its difficult to know whether the Mojito was invented in Cuba, but it was certainly Hemmingway in Cuba that brought it to popular attention.

Had a pretty lazing morning with breakfast at 100% Natural. Great service! And just in case you’re wondering Jonas - Yes the sol girl was serving and no she didn’t ask about you…..

Got a taxi to the airport. I was originally thinking about getting the ADO but left it a bit late. Getting through the airport was no problem, though I needn’t have got the visa to Cuba from the UK. It was easy enough to pick one up at the airport. Got through security and grabbed a bite to eat. It was quite humorous as the annoying American from Walmart the previous day was in front of the queue at the food stall. He was pretty obnoxious to the staff. I’ve met some really cool Americans and on the whole almost everyone I’ve met from the US are so nice, but seriously, some of them should not be allowed to travel! Its also some perverse logic that allows exactly these people who have the money to travel.

In the queue whilst waiting to board the aircraft I got talking to an Australian called “Blaze”. He’d been diving around Mexico and was going to Cuba before heading back to Mexico and then back home to Sydney. I told him about Dos Ojos cave system and we chatted about the usual things that travellers talk about when they meet; good places, places to avoid etc… He’d just come from a music festival in San Francisco which sounded amazing.

The plane itself was a bit of a bucket but the flight was largely uneventful. Getting through the immigration was easy enough but the baggage hall was another thing completely.

To call this chaos would be an insult to anything chaotic. Planes tended to arrived every ten minutes or so and it was clear that the airport was not big enough to cope with the number of tourists. Baggage was dumped onto the carrousel and then almost straight away dumped onto the floor as there were too many bags on the carosel. You then had to search around the floor for your bags and hope that someone hadn’t walked off with them. I was very lucky, partly because my bag is so heavy that no one would mistake it for their own. Blaze wasn’t so lucky so we set about trying to help him look for his bag. After around 30mins we gave it up as a bad job. The airport baggage handlers said call back tomorrow and the bags usually turned up. So if you’re travelling to Cuba make sure that you bag is uniquely identifiable or weighs a tonne!

I got some cash out of the ATM at the airport and was shocked to find out that 300 CUC (Cuba Pesco Convertible) is around 330 USD. Blaze and I got a taxi with two Norwegian girls we’d met in the baggage hall and Japanese lad Blaze had met in the queue for the lost luggage. It cost us around 50 CUC (55 USD). I checked into the hotel at Montehabana whilst the others continued into Habana. After grabbing a bite to eat I got a relatively early night.

Got to get out of Xpu-Ha. Xpu-Ha is one of those places that if you don’t move on you’d probably end up staying here for the rest of your life.

Went for breakfast with Mike, Juan Carlos and Nils. We took the van down the road to a small place just under the fly-over. Very Mexican – looks run down at a first glance, but the food was excellent. A smoothy from cantaloupe melon and 3 tacos – one with eggs, the other with liver and onions and the final with the equivalent of black pudding. Very nice. After chilling on the beach and one final swim in the ocean Juan Carlos dropped my off at the top of the road to get the bus back to Playa. It was sad to say goodbye to Juan Carlos. I really hope that we meet again.

Interesting but straightforward journey back to Cancun. This was the first time I’d been on the local buses with my big pack and it was no problem just a bit short on space. Got the bus to Playa and then straight on another one to Cancun. I had decided to get a local bus to Cancun instead of the ADO (similar to National Express). I knew that the Hotel Margaritas in Cancun was close to the ADO station so when I got off the small bus I asked a few people where the ADO station was. I got a few bemused looks until someone pointed out that it was straight across the street from me. D’oh! So from there it was a short walk to the hotel.

I had a few hours to kill before I’d planned to meet up with Jonas and Tobias. I tried to find somewhere that I could get my laundry done but because it was Saturday they would only do it for the Monday, which was no use I was flying to Cuba on the Sunday. Also the post office was closed which was a shame as I wanted to get the PADI forms and also mail a letter home. I’ll try to mail this from Cuba instead. Hope that mail gets through to USA.

Met up with Tobias and Jonas in the sports bar opposite from the hotel as planned. Had a few beers and a steak in the bar and then made our way to the stadium. We watched the replay of the Utd v Totthenham game. We started the game as Tottenham were 2:0 and I thought that Susan must be loving this, but then as Utd pulled clear and then demolished them I realised she probably hates them even more now…

The stadium was close to Walmart in a small sports complex so it was rude not to get some more beers at Walmart. The stadium itself was basic, but the cheerleaders more than made up for it.

The stadium has no roof – but then it hardly ever rains here and the games tend to be played in the evenings so there is no real need. The main problem with the stadium was that it was a fairly small crowd (< 5000) and the stands were behind an athletic track (always a bad idea!). Atlante (the team from Cancun) were playing Manta Ray from Veracruz (I think!). Atlante had reached the semis of the North American equivalent of the Champions League, but were struggling in this seasons domestic league. Unfortunately they appeared to be resting a lot of players for the big game ahead so Manta Ray dominated. That said it was a bit of a boring game. The only time it came alive was when Manta scored. The crowd just throw anything they have in their hands into the air so people get drenched in beer, coke etc…

The scoreline finised 1:0 to Manta Ray and the crowd dispersed. I was hoping for a better game but then again I hope that I can see something in Brazil hen I get there.
Said goodbye to Jonas and Tobias and then back to the hotel, So this was it, the final parting of the Fellowship. I was on my own now, or at least until I get to Cuba.

Last dive today of the open water certificate. The first place we dived at was Tortugas. The boat ride was a bit choppy out and we were all drenched before we even got to the dive site. Then it was down into the water.

This dive is a drift dive, which means that you free descend (to 18m) and then literally float with the current and then the boat picks us up at another spot 40mins later. This was my favourite so far as we got to see turtles again.

Seeing how easy these creatures swim against the current gives an idea of just how strong they are. Apart from the turtles we saw Barracuda and Moray Eels and hundreds of different fish.

Getting back onto the boat was a bit more tricky due to the swell and then it was off to the final dive site of Barracuda. This is a five fingered reef and we spent 40mins exploring around the edges of the reef. We saw a few more Morays (both spotted and green), lobster, scorpion fish and king crab. This was a really nice place but there were too many dive groups down here, almost felt like we were in a shopping mall. One of the divers from another group was poking the lobster trying to get a “better picture”. What a nob! Considering most animals only attack when they are provoked as a defensive reaction it would have been justice if the lobster had fought back.

Passed all the practical tests including taking my mask off and floating like a Buddha (for buoyancy control). Then it was back to the dive shop to do the theory test. Passed this test (96%) and then that was it – I was certified PADI open water diver.

Got a haircut in town which was actually straightforward and then grabbed a bite to eat. The place where I ate was a Mexican grilled chicken place just down the road from the hotel we stayed in at Playa. ¼ grilled chicken, plus sauce, rice and tortillas together with a soft drink for 45 peso (~£2.25) – Great food and a bargin!

Headed back to Xpu-Ha to celebrate with Juan Carlos and Mike. Then we tried to swap the roof racks on the van. At the moment the van we used only had a small rack. Mike had brought two racks down on his van so we took of the small rack and moved the big one from Mikes van to Juan Carlos’. In the states this would be done in a garage with a hydraulic hoist. Here at Xpu-Ha we only had man power, the 3 of us and 3 of the Kite Surfers – Pat, Dave and Dillan. Managed it without incident but some of the legs had gone missing so we had to improvise a bit.

One of Mikes passengers from a few years ago showed up (Nils from Dusseldorf, Germany). I think it was a trek in Mexico that he had done.

Also decided at last to try and get facebook sorted out. So I’m now registered and hopefully looking for “friends”….

In the evening we had a game of Trivial Pursuit. Gabby, Pat and Me on one team and Mike, Nils and Sandra on the other. We won but it was a close thing.

I was really exciting getting up this morning as today was my first proper dive in the ocean. Again caught the local bus into town and made my way to the dive shop. From here we got kitted up and took the gear down to the boat. It was a short ride out on the boat to the first site at Chun-Zumbul. We dived to 10m for 45mins.

Time went past so quickly as it always does under the water and in no time we had to surface and get back into the boat. From here it was a short ride to the next site at Jardines. Again a relatively shallow dive to 10m for 41min.

It’s the first time I’ve ever dived abroad and it would be really difficult to go back to cold water diving in the UK again. I was comfortable in only a 3mm shorty wetsuit and the amount of fish and other animals you can see is amazing. There’s so much life here.

After the course I made my way back to Xpu-Ha again. The wind has really got up today. It also looked like it may rain so I put the fly sheet on. Had my worst meal in Mexico… Because Xpu-Ha is out of the way and the only think resembling a food shop is the petrol station at the end of the road we decided to head up to get some food. None descript sandwich and snacks! Much worse than UK service station food which is bad! In hindsight should have just walked up the beach to one of the resorts and ate at their restaurants.

Around 10pm Mike suggested we go and fetch the tent as it had blown away. Luckily there was a tree at the end of the alley between the beach houses and the tent was stuck to this, otherwise some of my stuff may have ended up in Belize much sooner than me. Staked it down good and proper this time and put my big rucsac in just to add some weight. Apart from the battering from the wind had a fairly good night.

Got up early and caught the local bus into Playa del Carman. Its so cheap the public transport. Had to walk to the road which was about 15mins and then wave down a bus. The journey was around half and hour and cost 20 peso (~£1.00). Then had to walk across town to the dive shop.

Met Natalie who co-owns the shop (Dive Mexico) and would be my instructor. We went through the theory and then spent the morning to practical skills in the small pool in the back garden. All the skills came flooding back and it wasn’t long before I was back at home under the water.

The course finished around lunch time and then I was free for the afternoon. Went for a walk along the beach at Playa del Carmen. Considering the beach I’d just come from at Xpu-Ha I honestly don’t know why people spend there days on beaches like Playa del Carmen. Yes you can have a sun lounger and have someone bring you beers but its so crowded. Having said that the less people who know about Xpu-Ha, the better.

Found my way back to the bus stop and then caught the local bus back to Xpu-Ha. In the evening a few of us played poker at Pats apartment and ordered in Pizza. Pat was the kite surfing beach dude we’d met last time we were at Xpu-Ha. Also met Gabby from Germany, who’s been living in Mexico for 16 years. Was a good night even though I lost, but with a 20 peso buy in it will hardly break the bank.

Pitch one of the trek tents to sleep in next to the apartment. Was great to be sleeping under canvas, however the wind got up during the night but it was still better than sleeping inside as the mosquitos had made a return.

Originally I had planned to spend tonight in Cancun also, but I didn’t think I would accomplish anything with another day in Cancun. So I’ve moved my reservation back to 25th April which gives me a base to get back to before I fly to Cuba.

One of my original ideas was to head up to Holbox to swim with Whale Sharks. However with a bit more research I found that the Whale Sharks only really start towards end of May. So instead I went back to Playa del Carmen to do a PADI Open Water Course. I’ve gone back to the shop where Riccardo works (the guide who took us to the Cave Cenote). Juan Carlos was making his way back to the Xpu-Ha and so I got a lift in the van back to Playa del Carman.

Tobias, Jonas, Juan Carlos and I had breakfast in the 100% Natural restaurant across the street from the hotel. Then we swapped a few photos and music before Tobias and Jonas headed off for Isla Mujeres and Juan Carlos and I headed for Xpu-Ha.

It was such a strange feeling being back on the road again in the van. Kept expecting to turn round and see everyone still there. Got to Playa Del Carmen and Juan Carlos and I went to a tiny restaurant to eat Carnetas. Absolutely fantastic Pork ribs and BBQ Chicken. 3 weeks ago I would have walked past a place like this, but now it just seems natural to be eating in tiny out of the way places were just the Mexicans eat.

Met up with Riccardo and signed up for the PADI open water and then we went back to Riccardos place to get some beers and met up with other divers. Then it was back to Xpu-Ha.

Can’t believe I’ve now got homework to do for the theory tests for the diving course. It’s pretty straight forward though but its around 15 years since I last did any diving. Anyway had to read chapters 1 to 3 of the open water book for the test tomorrow. So I’ve now got another book to lug around. I’ll probably mail this back with any Spanish books I get from the language course in Cuba.

Mike, Juan Carlos and I are sharing a small apartment on the beach at Xpu-Ha. Its only a stone throw from the huts we stayed in with the trek group. I hardly recognised the place though as almost all the tents have now gone and the place is so quiet.