24th July 2009 – Pantanal
July 24th, 2009Today was my parents wedding anniversary, but because there was no mobile signal I couln’t send a text or phone them.
It was so cold during the night. The temperature had dropped right down and it had not stopped raining all night. Apparently this was really unseasonal weather as it should be the dry season. There was a real risk that we would not be able to get the truck out along the roads we had driven along. The first plan for today was to go on a dawn walk. We got up at 5:30am to meet. It was surprising to see just how many people from the group will get up at a stupid early time in the morning, even when it is rainy and cold. I guess this is why I like travelling with groups like this as they are generally the sort of likeminded people that enjoy similar activities to me. Unfortunately though it was still raining and basically hadn’t stopped all night. There was little point going for a walk so we went back to bed for an hour before breakfast.
Mid morning the rain had stopped and we could split into our activity groups. I was doing the horseriding first up. In this group was Fi, Maartje, Charlotte, Mirkka, Eugene, Renee, Webster, Maxine and our guide Diceasar. As we got onto the horses Diceasar’s got spooked and tore off through the others. As he wasn’t properly seated when the horse stopped dead Diceasar was thrown from the saddle, over the horses head to land on his back. He was pretty winded but other than that fine. However he had a really badly bruised ego! He could laugh about it afterwards, but he felt a bit embarrassed in front of the group. The other guides though found it highly hilarious.
Apart from being a bit chilly the horse ride was nice though with the paths being very muddy it wasn’t possible to go fast at all. We rode through some of the forested area where previously tapiers had been spotted, but we saw nothing except for a single deer out in the marsh. I guess any animal with half a brain would be curled up keeping warm. This probably doesn’t say a great deal for us humans who were out there regardless of the weather. After trailing through the forests and across some of the tracks we then made our way straight through one of the swamp areas that gives the Pantanal its name.

Webster’s horse was very amusing. Apart from refusing to move at anything but the slowest speed it was also fairly averse to getting any mud onto its legs so tried to find the driest route through the swamp. Towards the end of the ride and back onto the roads we managed to get some of the horses to trot. Back at the ranch we got started getting off the horses. Fi dismounted like she would back home pretty much jumping from the horse. However I don’t think these horses are used to this and it spooked the horse which tried to bolt. However fo had hold of the reins and managed to control it. It was pretty impressive to see the way she was able to control the horse. Whilst we were helping to get the kit off the horses Webster eventually arrived. Not exactly high planes drifter, but considering the last time he had ridden he’d been thrown I think he was pleased to make it one piece.
After lunch we met up again for a boat ride. It was still pretty cold and the first time I have been glad that I had brought at least some cold weather gear. Maartje and Charlotte warmed up with some aerobic exercises, which was very funny to watch; made even more so as I had it recorded as a video. I think I’ll set it to “flash dance” or something when I get back before posting it to facebook! We split into two boats with Maxine, Mirkka, Webster and me in one boat.
From the dock we made our way downsteam stopping occasionally to see the various birdlife. A pair of Jabaru storks live on the banks of the river close to the Posada. In the boat we were able to get much nearer that we would on land. They are very ungainly birds, and though look quite attractive from a distance with the black head and white body, they actually look malevolent close up.
We probably spent close to half an hour looking for wildlife and we saw plenty of egrets, herons and even some howler monkeys in one of the trees close to the river. My batteries decided to give out at this time. I was sat on the side of the left hand side of the boat with my spare batteries in my left hand pocket. Unfortunately I was wearing gloves and as I was pulling the batteries out of my pocket I lost my grip on them. They dropped over the edge and quickly disappeared underneath the water. I was so angry with myself. Firstly because it meant I was out of batteries for the rest of the trip and secondly for being such a complete numbskull!
After a while in looking for wildlife we headed to a read bank and got the fishing poles out for a spot of Piranha fishing. The rods were pretty basic, only a cane rod with some fishing line and a hook. The bait was chicken. Unlike the two previous times I’d tried, in the Amazon and in Venezuela, as soon as the bait was in the water you could feel the fish biting. We heard a cheer from the other boat as Renee pulled out the first fish. Maxine was the first to catch one from out boat. In the end I was able to catch 3. The winner was Maartje with 5 closely followed by Charlotte with 4.
After we’d run out of bait we continued down the river for a bit. Our driver then spotted a black collared hawk in the tree and called out to it. He took one of the fish from the bucket and threw it into the river. The hawk circled before diving into the water to pick up the fish. It was amazing to see this so close up. I remember as a kid going to Loch Garton, in Scotland, to watch the Osprey’s fishing. The Ospreys are the only fish hawks we have on the mainland in the UK. But I’ve never been as close as these back collared hawks.
I found that by taking the batteries from my camera and switching their order I could squeeze a few more photos. After watching the hawks fish for a while we then sort out one of the cayman. By placing one of the fish on a stick the guide was able to tempt the cayman to jump out of the water. It was amazing to see just how far they can launch themselves out of the water. I don’t think you would do this with crocs in Africa or Aus, but these cayman are much smaller. Our boat driver/guide only was missing a few fingers from his right hand. It could be that he wasn’t too good with knifes or that something had bitten him. I never asked him why but I wasn’t going to put my hand in the water either!
By the time we got back to the Posada we were all pretty cold and it was great to get back and have a hot shower. The evening was pretty much similar to the previous evening; playing some card and dice games along with a few beers and caprioskis. In theory this would be our last night at the Posada and we would be making our way out of the Pantanal tomorrow. Realistically no one expected this to happen. There had been too much rain, making the roads inpassible for the truck.